Conversion - Amazons with bolas

Once again we have a conversion tutorial and this time John uses the power of superglue to arm his Amazons with bolas. Whilst I haven't yet tangled with them on the tabletop ...okay, okay I'll get my coat and leave you to the tutorial... :-)

We've started playing a war game that has a rule in it that allows for entangling opponents. The miniatures I chose to play are Amazon warriors and while I'm extremely pleased with the choice, there weren't any weapons included with the figures that would be able to entangle an opponent. My choices for the ancient history period we're in are fairly limited (basically a net or a bola). After very brief consideration I decided to see if I could fashion a bola or two for my miniatures.

I started off looking up how the bola is made normally. Apparently it's simply three leather or rope cords about 2 or 3 foot long that are tied in together in a knot at one end; weights (stones, metal bits, etc) are fastened to the other end. The thrower uses the knotted end as a handle and swings it round and releases toward the target (s)he wishes to ensnare.

To create my bolas, first I got a bit of thread and three tiny beads. I probably should have used smaller beads or made the weights from a bit of greenstuff as I think the end result may be a bit big as far as the weights are concerned, but what I had at hand was what I used.

I measured and cut three pieces of the thread into 2 inch sections and tied them together at one end. In hindsight, it probably would have been better to measure out 6-7 inches per piece and tie them together and then cut off the excess to the correct length, as that would have made tying them easier.

Once the three pieces were tied I slid one bead on far enough that the end would wrap around the bead and touch back to the main piece of thread. With a touch of super glue I affixed the bead in place and then wrapped the end over the bead and fastened it to the thread with another drop of super glue. I repeated the process for each of the other two threads.

At this point I was fairly happy with my bola. It was quite floppy but I thought it was a good representation of what I wanted. My next task was to superglue the bola to the figure. In the process I accidentally got superglue all over the thread and my fingers, which caused the happy consequence of making all of the threads stand stiff. I let them dry in that position while I cleaned the glue off my fingers and then finally glued the first bola to the figure.

I followed the same process for the second bola (avoiding gluing my fingers the second time). After a spray undercoat of khaki color, bleach boned on the thread and then a wash in sepia, the cords were completed. Ghost grey was used for the weighted ends.

Fortune Points: Giving the players control

Somewhat over a year ago I discovered a really interesting post apocalypse RPG called Atomic Highway. I can't remember exactly how I came across it but I know that I first used to to run a modern day cops scenario for some new role players which went really well. It's a very simple, rules light system that I thoroughly recommend you check out. It's also free in PDF form. :-)

Anyhow, although I love the system in it's entirety there's one part that I've ported over to other RPGs, especially Pathfinder, because it's such a good mechanic. It's called Fortune Points and there are similarities with bennies in Savage Worlds, fate points in WFRP and, of course, Hero Points in Pathfinder. I always felt that Hero Points were a bit fiddly and limited so I never actually used them.  Anyhow, whilst it's not an original mechanic per se it's the best implementation of it that I've personally come across.  I shan't outline the original mechanics here; Atomic Highway is well worth a read if you're interested in the original, instead I'm just going to talk about how I converted them to use in Pathfinder.

Fortune Points in Pathfinder RPG

I start with about 20 Fortune Points (FPs) divided amongst all the players, so depending on how many people there are, players get between three and five each. I sometimes give out  extra ones during play if someone does something particularly cool or funny but usually just two or three over a four hour session.  I always have physical counters that people can pick up and pass around, somehow it's just better than making them another number on the character sheet.

If you want to just test out the mechanic in your game you might try giving one to each player to start with.

Using Fortune Points

You can use Fortune Points in the following ways:

• You can spend one FP to change one d20 roll to a natural 20. You can't score critical hits from doing this but that's the only limit. You can use one to confirm a critical. You can only affect d20 rolls so damage cannot be affect.
• You can spend two FPs to create a plot tweak, a small change in the plot that you want to see happen.
• You can spend more plot points, typically five, to create a plot twist which is a more major change in the plot.
• Players may spend points on other players if they wish. They may also club together to buy plot twists and tweaks.

How this changes the game... in my experience.

Naturally this mechanic creates a few changes in the game dynamics but my group has found them really positive. The other members of the group who GM use them as well now. Your mileage may vary of course. Below I talk about the changes I've seen in about 15 months of using them in weekly games as both a player and a GM.  In general, being able to buy a roll of 20 when you really want one speeds up combat and mitigates the bad dice rolls that afflict some players.  Buying plot twists and tweaks allow the player to influence the story more.

Buying a 20

Player: "Darn, I missed and I'm sure I just need one more hit to bring him down. Okay, I'll spend a Fortune Point...

Fights go quicker because players spend FPs at important moments to get a hit or confirm a critical.

Player: "I leap across the chasm... Darn, I rolled a one. I'll spend a Fortune Point. Sooo, I leap across the chasm..."

I think you also get a bit more of a cinematic feel because dramatic moments are less likely to be killed by bad dice rolls.

GM: "The dragon sends ball of fire towards you. Make a Reflex save."
Player: Rolls dice. "Agh! Okay, I'll spend my last Fortune Point that's half damage. I'm still alive - barely."

Fortune points also help out with failed saves making the characters better able to deal with spellcasters and other creatures out of their league... at least for a while. I like this because it means I can put the party up against enemies which are mechanically too tough for them but should logically be be present in a given situation. You see the heroes get out of deadly situations by the power of fate, just like in a film or a book.  Players seem to enjoy that because it makes it easier for them to do cool things. And that's a big part of why we play.

But - and here's an important point folks; yes, Fortune Points give the PCs a bit more power but they don't make them invincible. If you're running a game with a lot of deaths this will slow it down but won't stop it.

Tweaking and twisting the plot

So much for buying the rolls you want. What about these plot twists and tweaks I hear you ask? Isn't that asking for trouble? Won't the players derail my game? Speaking as a low prep GM who does a lot of improvisation anyway, no.  Personally, I take the view that a large part of GMing is thinking on your feet anyway.  If you are someone who prepares in detail and finds it tough to improvise, then this might not be so good for you.

However, for me it makes GMing easier because it takes some of the work away from me and gives it to the players. It also means that the players have a way of telling me what they think is cool and want to see happen within the game mechanics. Having a mechanic for this makes it much easier for me to know what they want to see happen and what they think will be fun, and saves me a lot of guesswork. You can also find out how much they want to see it happen by how many points they're willing to spend and which players are willing to contribute points to make it happen. Keep in mind you can always refuse a plot twist, although I find it's seldom necessary.

You might well be asking what the difference between a plot teak and a plot twist is. To be honest it's pretty subjective as it depends on the individual GM.  A twist is something you think should be more expensive than plot tweak. Sometimes I'll ask for three or four FPs if I think it's somewhere in the middle. Sometimes I'll make it cheaper or more expensive depending on how much I like the idea and how many FPs are left on the table.

A few examples will hopefully help illustrate the differences. All of these occurred in Pathfinder games I've run over the last year or so. 

• The party have got themselves in trouble. They're in a demon infested wasteland, are injured and pretty much surrounded. The city which offers safety is another day's ride away. It was a big group and they offer me 9 FPs for some of the Paladins from the city to appear and rescue them.  Since it avoids a likely TPK I'm quite happy to accept this.
• The party are visiting the castle of a rather unpleasant knight called Sir Leontes. The barbarian unintentionally kills him when a 'friendly' practice fight results in him doing over a 100 points of subdual damage in one hit. The party looks around at his assembled guards, who were watching the duel, and spend 7 FPs. They decide the dead knight was loathed by everyone, including his wife, liege lord and the king, and that nobody will shed any tears for him. Instead of getting into trouble they become quietly popular in the town.
• Two friendly NPCs get statted up so that they can actually be of practical assistance to the party rather than just friends. One is a Cleric and the other is a Paladin. This is quite a big change but the party need all the help they can get at the moment so 5 FPs.
• The enemy army is going to have to come through some paddy fields, slowing down their troops and giving the players an advantage. 4 FPs
• Celene, an unscrupulous bard, has met a powerful fey called the King of the Forest. The player wants her to ingratiate herself in the fey court and offers me 3 FPs. I take them knowing that although it's a big change I'll be able to use it in interesting ways later on.
• One of the players really wants a dragon as a pet and they've just met a dragon who they are talking to. She asks if she can trade a magic item to get an egg. Since the egg won't hatch until I want it to this isn't going to break the game in anyway. She gives me 2 FPs and persuades the dragon that her magic item really is better than one of it's eggs.
• The party is carving out a kingdom for themselves but know that their enemies are only a few weeks away with a big army. They want the castles they control  to be well built and defensible. That doesn't seem like a big change as I was going to assume the castles were okay anyway so I just take 2 FPs.
• One of the party's allies happens to be in town and heals them up after a recent encounter with a rival adventuring party. They don't have a cleric and it just saves them a bit of time and money so I take 2 FPs.

That's all, folks. Congratulations if you got to them end of this rather bumper post! If you try using Fortune Points in your games I'd love to hear how it works out for you. Feel free to come back and leave a comment.

Return to role playing articles page.

Instant Mold - Satyr Conversion

We're back with another tutorial from the prolific John Dulle whose Amazon warband has received yet more reinforcements. This time it's a female satyr, or faun as the Romans called them, involving assorted plastic bits, milliput and Instant Mold.

Having seen Eddie play a faun in our wargame, I thought it might not be a bad idea if my warband had one as well. The only problem is I wanted all my characters to be female and to look extremely similar. To remedy this, Eddie traded me some GW beastmen bodies for some of my Amazons.

To start, I was running out of Amazons and wasn't sure how well the conversion might work, so I used a handy product called Instant Mold, which is a reusable material that can be used to create molds very easily and quickly (highly recommended). After melting the Instant Mold with boiling water and then putting it in the rough shape I needed, I created molds of the top half of a couple of my Amazon warriors; the top half is all I needed for a faun and a centaur (a separate project).

Once cooled, I used GEDEO brand resin plaster (similar to plaster of Paris but much harder when fully cured – I got mine at Hobby Craft) to cast two new top halves of my Amazons. Once cured (says 30 minutes to de-mold on the box but I suggest 2 to 24 hours to prevent crumbling), I then cleaned up the mold lines and set them aside for a few seconds while I hacked off the top half of the Beastman.

I then checked to see how the top and bottom halves would match up. After deciding on a good facing, I super glued the two pieces together. Because the two pieces had slightly different musculature, I needed to use a bit of filler to make the pieces appear to be seamless. I chose to use Milliput to do this (the choice was based on the quantity of the stuff I have that is beginning to get old).

Finally came putting the arms and head on the Amazon and deciding which weapons to outfit her with. Because I had a bit of left over Milliput and I'd chosen to outfit her with javelins, I decided to create a quiver for extra javelins and super glued it to her back.

Primed, painted, varnished, based and ready for battle.

Blog News: Egyptians, Living History and Blood Bowl

Well, it's been a while since I posted something that I wrote myself, since I've had tutorials written by friends to post up recently. Makes me feel kind of guilty... Things have been happening though, albeit not so much  here on the blog. Now that work has quietened down for the summer, I've managed to become a bit more productive in the hobby arena.

Like most long time gamers I've acquired a lot of stuff over the years and over the last couple of weeks I've been spending quite a bit of time sorting things out and putting them into some kind of order. The role playing stuff was relatively straightforward as I simply had to sort out books and throw away character sheets and campaign notes that I'd accumulated over the years. Despite the sentimental value of stuff that I'd written when I was a teenager I steeled myself and ruthlessly binned things. Sorting through my miniatures collection on the other hand is a much bigger job, mostly because I've not been terribly systematic about storing things in the past. Plus there's far less stuff that I can bring myself to simply throw away! It's quite rewarding though, and I've rediscovered a lot of old friends, some of whom which be useful in the near future. I now have plenty of orc and undead models to use as baddies in my RPGs. This is particularly handy since the players in my Pathfinder campaign are about to get involved in a war.  :-)

If you read this blog regularly, you've probably noticed I'm playing and organizing a Greek/Celtic/Egyptian/Persian mythic skirmish campaign using Song of Blades and Heroes which has been a lot of fun. The army lists I wrote seem to be working quite well so far although it looks like the Greeks need a bit of a boost as they're struggling against hordes of Persian undead.

I've also set myself the goal of getting a 300 point warband for each faction painted  by 1st September. So far I've nearly got the Greeks and Celts done and I've started on the Egyptians. I snapped a quick picture to show post up.  The guy with the blue shield is my finished test model and the others are painting in progress. They're from Wargods of Aegyptus by Crocodile Games and they're really nice models to paint, quite big with nicely defined areas and just the right amount of detail for my tastes.

Egyptians - painting in progress

It hasn't all been indoor activities though, I've also been on a few trips, notably to History Live 2013 up near Northampton. It's a big event with lectures from popular historians and 2000 reenactors covering everything from the Romans up to World War II.   It was a great weekend away with friends and family and there were loads of interesting things for a role-player and miniature painter to look at. Meeting reenactors is about as close to meeting real vikings or British Tommies as we'll ever get and it was great chatting with them. I took a load of photos which I'm slowly editing for the web so I can make a few posts with reference pictures for people. Some of them would be great inspiration for characters in an RPG and/or reference for miniature painters.

Norman shieldwall at History Live 2013

Just in case you thought I wasn't doing enough gaming, I'm meeting up with a friend for a game of Blood Bowl tomorrow. There's a league starting soon at the Gamers Guild - which is my FLGS - and I'm looking forward to a pre-season friendly to try out my roster. I've decided to do High Elves as I fancy playing a team that can handle the ball reliably. The last time I played in league I coached Vampires which was entertaining but mildly frustrating at times as it's a very random kind of team.

Looking ahead for Axes and Arrows, however, I've got a few things planned that I hope to get posted in the nearish future including: 

• How to paint strip miniatures
• How and why to thin your paints 
• Reference photos from History Live
• Giving players control of the story in a role-playing game
• More conversion tutorials

Plus there should be some posts of things I've painted over the summer once they're all done and photographed.

On that note, I'm off to do some more painting..

Instant Mold - Centaur Conversion

Greetings fellow travellers! Today we have our first ever conversion post written by my pal, John Dulle. John has been creating an impressive Amazon warband for our skirmish campaign and has kindly written up a few quick tutorials on how he made some of the more unique models in his warband. Enjoy!

Resin cast Centaur conversion - left view

I'd seen Centaurs used in battle against me and decided I needed to add some to my warband. With some finely donated horses to the cause, I decided to see what I could do to create my own centaur.

Resin cast Centaur conversion - front view

The first thing I did was to use the Instant Mold to mold the two halves of the horse. I wanted to cast the pieces in resin plaster and join them instead of using the plastic horses given for the cause because I wasn't sure how successful it would turn out. Additionally I was casting the Amazon top halves at the same time, so it was easy to mix up the plaster I needed to do the job.

Resin cast Centaur conversion - right hand view

De-molding the horses was done too quickly (only after 30 minutes) and the pieces broke and crumbled in a couple spots. I had to leave them for 24 hours to completely harden and then I glued the horse's legs back on.

After sanding the two pieces of the horse together, I super glued them and then super glued the Amazon top half to where the horse's neck came to. I used a bit of Milliput to cover the seams and the saddle, which I didn't want to show, and then super glued it to the base. I probably should have put the Milliput in the excess spaces of the base at the same time, but I ended up doing it after all the painting was done, which wasn't really a problem since the basing material covered it anyway. After attaching the head, arms and weapons, I primed the whole thing and did the undercoat in khaki spray paint.

Painted, spray-lacquered and based. She had her first battle today.

Wargames Factory Amazon Centaur conversion - left view

Wargames Factory Amazon Centaur conversion - front view

Wargames Factory Amazon Centaur conversion - right hand view

Wargames Factory Amazon Centaur conversion - head on view

Gods and Titans

Expect an update to the miniatures section of this page shortly!

As Wrath of the Gods gets into full swing, we up the stakes with rules for Gods and Titans. These are new character types which are made up individually by players within the guidelines below.

Gods: The deities of the ancient world sometimes intervene directly in mortal affairs.
Requirements: Hero, minimum Quality 3+, 25-30mm base.

Titans: These as ancient giants ruled long ago until the gods defeated them and barred them in the underworld. Now they are free again.
Titan Requirements: Tough, minimum Combat 4, minimum 40mm base

Note that Gods and Titans are always Personalities.

New game mode: Epic Clash

Players may agree to play an Epic Clash. In this type of game each player must field at least one God or Titan and may spend up to half their points on them. This replaces the the one third limit on personalities although ordinary personalities are still allowed - the gods need their worshipers!

One third of you points must be spent orirdinary troops from your roster. If you have played five games and earned the title of Veteran you can include custom models that are not Gods or Titans.

Victory Points

Since Gods and Titans are centrepiece models you can gain three VPs for painting one. You must have at least six colours which might mean you need some highlighting or shading.

Miniatures List

The following are figures that I think would be good for gods and Titans. You may find others and that's fine. The following are all availabkle to order through our FLGS, the Gamers Guild.

Celtic Titans and Heroes

Adepts of Malesur from Sphere Wars
Big were creatures

Ursapine from Godslayer

Fellganger a giant from Godslayer

Wyldfolk of Annyr from Godslayer

Egyptian Titan

Khemri Warsphinx from GW

Greek Titans, Gods and Heroes

Scions of Kurgan from Sphere Wars
Big ugly monsters


The Halodyne from Godslayer

Persian Titans

Troglodytes from Godslayer
Wraith and  ogre/troll types with an eastern look

Packs of Urueh from Sphere Wars
Firey kind of demons

Tutorial Painting British WW2 Commandos Part 2

Welcome back to our tutorial on painting World War 2 British soldiers like a pro.. If you haven't seen part 1 you can find it here.  Once again I hand you over to Troy Brand of Brand Painting Studios who today will be mostly showing us how to paint flesh. 

Ed

Painting the skin

Once I was satisfied with the uniform, which covers the largest percentage of the model, I moved on to paint the hands and face with Vallejo's Panzer Aces Flat Flesh. The Panzer Aces line has some very good flesh tones and I thoroughly recommend picking some of these up.  However, the paint in itself is a little pale at first. This is fine, as once a wash has been applied (once again I used Sepia wash) the paleness goes, revealing warmer tones as well as the details on the face.

Clockwise: base coat, wash, highlights

The highlighting on the face and hands was achieved by adding three layers: the first was a layer of Flat Flesh, then a 1-1 mix of Flat and Light Flesh (again from Vallejo) and finally a last one of Vallejo Light Flesh. Satisfied with the flesh tones I then painted the beret. This was a two stage process of painting a base coat of Vallejo Dark Green and highlighting it with a mix of Dark and Light Green.

Painting the sten gun

I picked this time to paint the sten gun, which looks a very, very dark metallic black. This I achieved by making a 2-1 mix of Vallejo Flat Black and Vallejo Gun Metal Grey. If I had not run out of the old Citadel Bolt Gun Metal I would have used that, as Citadel used to make the better metallic paints of the two brands. I then washed the sten with a thinned down wash of Citadel Badab Black. I have not used the new black wash from Citadel, but I really like the medium they used for the old washes. A very light drybrush with the original metallic brought out the details.

The model after the skin highlights and the beret were finished, along with the sten gun.

Unfortunately I did not have enough presence of mind to take pictures of the remaining process, but essentially it boiled down to six areas: the shirt, straps, the rucksack, the pouches, boots and base.

The shirt was painted with a single layer of Off White, which makes a very good contrast with the rest of the model. The straps, equally easy to paint, were all painted with a single coat of Sand.

The original rucksack was a pale shade of green-grey which I achieved by painting the base coat with Vallejo's Intermediate Blue (a slightly blue-ish grey) followed by two consecutive washes of Badab Black.

The pouches were painted with Dark Green and highlighted with a 1-1 mix of Dark Green and Vallejo Game colour Heavy Khaki.

The boots were painted Flat Black and the leggings just above them are painted sand and washed with the same sepia wash.

The base was painted Dark Ochre, then given a wash made with thinned down Citadel Scorched Brown, finally touched up with static grass

The process may have seemed long-drawn and complicated, but the steps in themselves are easy, quick to do and if you apply an assembly line method where you are touching up the last model as the first one dries up you will find yourself finished before you know it. Time to take on the Fascist scum!

That's all for now folks. If you enjoyed this tutorial, check out Troy's website. He does commission work and his rates are very reasonable. Ed

Return to the Painting Articles page.

Wrath of the Gods: Miniatures

When you play Warhammer you pretty much have to use Games Workshop figures.  With a game like this, you can use any miniatures you like so long as they look the part.  There is a pretty wide range of companies that make suitable miniatures but hopefully the links below will provide you with plenty of options to get started. They are all available to order from our fine local gaming store, The Gamers Guild. just phone or visit the shop.

The most economical option is probably to get one of the multi part plastic kits. They're comparable to GW kits but a great deal cheaper. Most of the boxes contain 30 to 40 miniatures for about £20 so sharing a box with a friend is entirely possible. If you like metal minis you have yet more options to choose from.

Warlord Games make a wide range of ancients miniatures.  Most of their plastic boxed sets come in at about £20 with blisters going from £2 - £12.

• There are no less than six boxes of plastic Greeks to choose from as well as a choice of metal figures.
• Gallic Celts and British Celts including chieftains and druids.
• Assyrians and Babylonians could be interesting for a Persian or Egyptian warband. They're all metal so they're a bit more expensive than some of the other options though.

Wargames Factory's boxes cost $20 which is £16.50 at UK retail and all of their miniatures are multipart plastics.

• Greeks and Persians   Since the presentation of the Persian miniatures really doesn't do them any favours you might want to have a look at these rather beautifully painted examples here.
• Amazons Warrior women with a range of weapon options.
• Celts including plastic cavalry and chariots.
• Numidians These are wonderfully versatile models that could be made into light infantry from Greece, Egypt or Persia.  There are some nicely painted examples of them in a review here.

Mantic Games make some rather nice undead. Their Zombies and Ghouls could easily belong in an Persian or Egyptian warband. The Undead Mummies which are about to be released would be great for an Egyptian warband.  A lot of their other fantasy figures are too medieval for this campaign but the Trolls are crying out for conversion into something!


Games Workshop can't be ignored entirely because the Tomb Kings are the obvious choice for an Egyptian warband. The Skeleton Warriors are actually okay in terms of value for money too at £20 for 16 figures. Not a bargain but not terrible either. Some other things from GW, like minotaurs, could be used too.


Harpies Five for £15 is not a bad deal if you want some evil scary flying things!
Minotaurs £20 each, nice detailed sculpts.



Satyrs from Fanticide are another nice but badly presented range of miniatures. Happily there are some well painted examples here.




The 28mm historical personalities are nice character figures for £2.50 each and include Ramases II in case you wanted to find that elusive Pharaoh miniature. The rest of their figures are in small scales unfortunately.


If you have a suggestion for something to add, please leave a comment or post on the Facebook Group.

Egyptian Warband Roster

The cult of Anubis, the death god, has grown strong in Egypt under the influence of Persia. The inhabitants of its ancient pyramids stir and venture forth from the realm of the dead. Nor are the men of Egypt idle: Pharoah's human armies are also ready for war.

If you haven't played with these rules before this is what you need to know: a low quality value is good because you need to roll over it on a d6. A high Combat value is good because you add it to a d6 roll. Special rules generally do what the name implies.

A starting warband is 300 points and you can't spend more than 100pts on personalities.The point limit will increase as the campaign progresses.

New units will also appear throughout the campaign.

Awakened Pharaoh - Personality Points 95 Quality 2+ Combat 4 Special Rules Magic-User, Undead Those pharaohs who have returned from the dead are amongst the most powerful magicians in the world.

Egyptian Archer Points 17 Quality 5+ Combat 2 Special Rules Desert Walk, Shooter: Medium Archery is the Egyptians' preferred form of combat.

Egyptian Chariot Points 50 Quality 4+ Combat 2 Special Rules Good Shot, Long Move, Mounted, Shooter: Medium Charioteers race across the battlefield firing arrows at the enemy.

Egyptian Priest of Anubis - Personality Points 40 Quality 3+ Combat 1 Special Rules Necromancer The sinister priests of the death god have been key allies of the Persians.

Egyptian Priest of Thoth - Personality Points 45 Quality 2+ Combat 1 Special Rules Coward, Magic-User

The servants of the god of magic are reluctant warriors but effective nonetheless. Egyptian Warrior Points 13 Quality 5+ Combat 2 Special Rules Desert Walk Egyptian soldiers are numerous if unspectacular warriors.

Giant Scorpion Points 30 Quality 4+ Combat 3 Special Rules Animal, Huge, Poison

These unnaturally large scorpions give even the most fearsome warriors pause. Honoured Commander - Personality Points 48 Quality 3+ Combat 1 Special Rules Leader, Shooter: Medium Leading troops for the Pharaoh is a great honour but few courtiers are personally accomplished warriors.

Mummified Guardian Points 36 Quality 3+ Combat 3 Special Rules Undead Those who have sworn to guard a Pharaoh beyond death are deadly enemies.

Pharaoh - Personality Points 60 Quality 2+ Combat 1 Special Rules Leader, Shooter: Medium Revered as a god by his people, the Pharaoh is an exceptional leader.

Royal Guard Points 26 Quality 3+ Combat 2 Special Rules Steadfast The best troops in Egypt, these soldiers are highly trained and extremely brave.

Skeleton Archer Points 26 Quality 4+ Combat 2 Special Rules Shooter: Medium, Undead

Animated by the dark gifts of Anubis, skeletons are surprisingly effective warriors. Skeleton Points 20 Quality 4+ Combat 2 Special Rules Undead

Animated by the dark gifts of Anubis, skeletons are surprisingly effective warriors.

Celt Warband Roster

Drawn by the dire warnings of their shamans who realise the danger that Xerxes poses to the world many Celtic warbands have travelled south to seek glory in battle against this legendary empire. The prospect of large amounts of booty have also proved a powerful attraction.

If you haven't played with these rules before this is what you need to know: a low quality value is good because you need to roll over it on a d6. A high Combat value is good because you add it to a d6 roll. Special rules generally do what the name implies.

A starting warband is 300 points and you can't spend more than 100pts on personalities.The point limit will increase as the campaign progresses.

New units will also appear throughout the campaign.

Special Rule: Individualistic
Celts are a tribal people and lack the discipline of more civilised armies. A Celtic warband need not include a Leader although it must include at least one personality.

All miniatures linked to can be ordered from the Gamers Guild.

Cave Bear Points 40 Quality 3+ Combat 4 Special Rules Animal, Big Cave bears are fearsome creatures who lumber into battle at the bidding of the Druids. Miniatures can be found here. Celtic Beserker Points 27 Quality 4+ Combat 3 Special Rules Savage Some warriors suffer a terrible battle frenzy. Their mad charges can break an enemy battle line with their ferocity. Celtic Cavalry Points 39 Quality 4+ Combat 2 Special Rules Long Move, Mounted Speed is something that the Celts value and a good horseman is a useful warrior. Celtic Chariot Points 48 Quality 4+ Combat 2 Special Rules Dashing, Long Move, Mounted, Savage Particularly skilled warriors take the battle to the enemy in chariots. Celtic Chieftain - Personality Points 50 Quality 4+ Combat 3 Special Rules Dashing, Leader Tough and canny fighters, chieftains lead their men for glory and plunder. Celtic Warleader - Personality Points 72 Quality 3+ Combat 3 Special Rules Dashing, Fearless, Hero Not every celtic leader concerns himself with the subtleties of strategy, some are simply peerless killers whom men will follow into the very jaws of hell. Celtic Warrior Points 13 Quality 5+ Combat 2 Special Rules Dashing Celtic warriors have a preferred tactic: Charge! Druid - Personality Points 46 Quality 3+ Combat 1 Special Rules Enchanter, Forester These nature priests have called the most powerful creatures of the natural world to join the battle against Xerxes' apocalyptic goals. Mammoth - Personality Points 84 Quality 3+ Combat 5 Special Rules Animal, Huge, Tough Large, woolly and with monstrous tusks, mammoths trample the enemies of nature beneath their feet. Miniatures can be found here. Wolf / Warhound Points 26 Quality 4+ Combat 2 Special Rules Animal, Long Move Wolves and warhounds are popular pets amongst the celts. Outsiders often can't tell the difference. You can find miniatures for wolves and warhounds at the linked pages.

Persian Warband Roster

The God King Xerxes has determined to conquer the insolent Greeks and overthrow their pathetic gods. He has already succeeded in recruiting the foul children of the Titans and is close to setting the immortals themselves free. 


If you haven't played with these rules before this is what you need to know: a low quality value is good because you need to roll over it on a d6. A high Combat value is good because you add it to a d6 roll. Special rules generally do what the name implies.

A starting warband is 300 points and you can't spend more than 100pts on personalities.The point limit will increase as the campaign progresses.

New units will also appear throughout the campaign.

Cyclops - Titan Spawn Points 68 Quality 3+ Combat 4 Special Rules Huge, Mountaineer, Shooter: Long These one-eyed giants throw rocks at their enemies or simply pund them with clubs if they get close enough.

Ghoul Points 24 Quality 4+ Combat 2 Special Rules Poison, Undead Foul, stinking undead who feed on the bodies of the living. Deeply unpopular with Xerxes' human soldiers.

Harpy - Titan Spawn Points 48 Quality 4+ Combat 2 Special Rules Distract, Flying These winged monsters are able to enchant their enemies with their songs.

Immortal Commander (Wraith) - Personality Points 72 Quality 3+ Combat 3 Special Rules Free Disengage, Leader, Undead Xerxes' best commanders never perish, instead they rise from the dead to serve him again.

Immortal Footsoldier (Wraith) Points 24 Quality 4+ Combat 3 Special Rules Heavy Armor, Slow, Undead These elite Persian soldiers have sworn an oath to server Xerxes beyond death.

Minotaur - Titan Spawn - Personality Points 86 Quality 3+ Combat 4 Special Rules Hero, Huge, Savage Huge and virtually unstoppable as they butcher their way through their enemies, Minotaurs are truly fearsome foes.

Persian Archer Points 14 Quality 5+ Combat 2 Special Rules Shooter: Medium Persian bowmen serve the God King loyally but reluctantly alongside his monsters.

Persian Cavalry Points 39 Quality 4+ Combat 2 Special Rules Long Move, Mounted The nobles of Persia fight from horseback bringing much needed mobility to their army.

Persian Satrap - Personality Points 40 Quality 3+ Combat 1 Special Rules Leader Pampered but effective commanders who direct Xerxes' armies in his absence.

Persian Magus - Personality Points 40 Quality 3+ Combat 1 Special Rules Magic-User Scholars and wise men the Magi have been forced by Xerxes to serve his dark ends. Persian Necromancer - Personality Points 42 Quality 4+ Combat 2 Special Rules Necromancer, Undead Those Magi who refused to serve Xerxes in life now serve him in death, adding more living corpses to his armies.

Persian Spearman Points 13 Quality 5+ Combat 2 Special Rules Poison Persian warriors are reluctant combatants but equip their weapons with poisons to help bring sown superior troops.

Zombie Points 9 Quality 6+ Combat 4 Special Rules Slow, Undead Whilst the newly dead are not terribly reliable warriors there is an almost unending supply of them in Xerxes Persia.